Биография коко шанель на английском языке. Коко Шанель: рождена, чтобы выжить Murky motives Неясные мотивы

She was one of the most remarkable women of the 20th Century, but Coco Chanel"s reputation is again under scrutiny over allegations that she was a Nazi agent in World War II France.

Она была одной из самых замечательных женщин 20-го столетия, но репутация Коко Шанель вновь под вопросом: утверждают, что она была агентом нацистов во Франции в период второй мировой войны.

To millions of people around the globe Chanel stands for style, opulence and understated elegance, from haute couture worn by the few to ready-to-wear treasured by the masses. Her achievements are undeniable. Chanel"s instantly recognisable suits have been sported by stylistas from the Duchess of Windsor to Carla Bruni-Sarkozy.

Для миллионов людей по всему земному шару Шанель - это стиль, роскошь и сдержанная элегантность, будь то платья от кутюр или массовый пошив. Её достижения неоспоримы. Мгновенно узнаваемые костюмы от Шанель взяли на вооружение все стилисты от герцогини Виндзорской до Карлы Бруни-Саркози.

Jackie Kennedy was wearing a pink version when JFK was assassinated in Dallas in 1963.

На Джеки Кеннеди был такой розовый костюм, когда рядом с ней убили мужа (президента Кеннеди) в Далласе в 1963 г.

And, the "little black dress", that byword for elegant simplicity has regularly topped polls for the most iconic of all items of clothing.

А "маленькое чёрное платье", ставшее синонимом элегантной простоты, регулярно побеждает в опросах как "икона стиля" в одежде.

But there is another side to the story of Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, and it concerns her actions in occupied France during World War II.

Но есть и другая сторона жизни Габриель "Коко" Шанель. Она касается её деятельности в оккупированной Франции в период второй мировой войны.

Like many luminaries, including the singers Edith Piaf and Maurice Chevalier, the writer Jean Cocteau and the late president Francois Mitterrand, Chanel remained in her native country following its occupation by German forces in the summer of 1940.

Как многие знаменитости, включая певицу Эдит Пиаф, певца Мориса Шевалье, писателя Жана Кокто и покойного президента Миттерана, Шанель осталась в родной стране после её оккупации немецкими войсками летом 1940 года.

And since the war"s end, rumours have abounded about the real nature of her association with the Nazis.

Когда война закончилась, было много слухов о характере её связей с нацистами.

Now according to Hal Vaughan, author of the new book, Sleeping with the Enemy, Chanel is revealed as having actually worked for German military intelligence during the war.

Being a Nazi agent was "part of her daily life" in Paris during the occupation, he says.

Он говорит, что работа нацистским агентом была частью её жизни в оккупированном Париже.

"Chanel was a consummate opportunist. The Nazis were in power, and Chanel gravitated to power. It was the story of her life.

"Шанель была в высшей степени оппортунисткой. Нацисты были у власти, а Шанель тянулась к власти. Причём всю жизнь.

Chanel didn"t believe in anything, except fashion. Chanel believed in beautiful clothes, she believed in her business and rightly so; she didn"t care about Hitler or politics or Nazism."

Шанель не верила ни во что, кроме моды. Она верила в прекрасную одежду, в свой бизнес (и не без основания); ей был безразличен Гитлер или политика, или нацизм."

Ensconced in the luxury of the Hotel Ritz, a privilege permitted to few non-Germans, Chanel, who had closed her shops in France at the outbreak of war, was in constant contact with the country"s new Nazi overlords.

Живущая в роскоши в отеле Ритц - а эту привилегию имели почти исключительно немцы - Шанель, которая с началом войны закрыла свои магазины во Франции, поддерживала постоянный контакт с новыми нацистскими хозяевами страны.

Key to the new allegations is her affair with the dashing 44-year-old German officer Baron Hans Guenther von Dincklage who, Vaughan says, "has been treated by every biographer as a kind of playboy tennis man".

Обвинения против неё основаны на любовном романе с бравым 44-летним немецким офицером бароном Г.Г. фон Динклаге, который, по словам Воэна, "всеми биографами описывается как теннисист-плейбой".

He wasn"t. He was a professional Abwehr officer, who had been operating in France since the late 1920s.

Плейбоем он не был. Это был профессиональный офицер абвера (немецкая военная разведка), работавший во Франции ещё с 1920-х годов.

"He manipulated Chanel, and Chanel manipulated him."

"Он манипулировал Шанель, а Шанель манипулировала им."

It was von Dincklage who arranged the 57-year-old Chanel"s stay in the Ritz and who managed her business relations with the occupation authorities.

Именно фон Динклаге устроил для 57-летней Шанель проживание в отеле Ритц и ведал её деловыми отношениями с оккупационными властями.

In return, Vaughan says, the Abwehr signed Chanel up as Agent F-7124, codenamed "Westminster" after a former lover, the second duke.

А за это, по словам Воэна, Шанель стала агентом абвера F-7124 под кличкой "Вестминстер" в честь её бывшего любовника (второго герцога Вестминстерского).

In a gavotte-like relationship, the feisty Chanel manoeuvred for the release of her nephew, Andre Palasse, from a prisoner-of-war camp in Germany.

В этой замысловатой игре упрямая Шанель добивалась освобождения своего племянника Андре Палассе из лагеря военнопленных в Германии.

Beyond this, the Abwehr dangled before her the enticing prospect of taking control of the highly profitable Chanel perfume business, which she had licensed to the Jewish Wertheimer brothers in 1924.

Кроме того, абвер манил её перспективой вернуть очень прибыльный парфюмерный бизнес Шанель, лицензию на который она продала в 1924 году братьям Вертхаймерам, евреям.

Indeed, she did make a claim to the company under Nazi "Aryanisation" laws, not realising that the Wertheimers, by then safely in the United States, had handed control of the firm to a Christian.

И действительно, она заявила претензии на эту компанию по нацистским законам об "арианизации", не зная о том, что братья Вертхаймеры (к тому времени проживавшие в США) передали управление фирмой человеку христианского вероисповедания.

Murky motives Неясные мотивы

While agreeing that Vaughan"s book adds some new detail to Chanel"s war years, the writer Justine Picardie, whose biography, Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life, was published last year, believes that Chanel"s motives were "a bit more subtle and nuanced".

Соглашаясь с тем, что книга Воэна содержит новые детали военных лет Шанель, писательница Юстин Пикарди, автор биографии "Коко Шанель: легенда и жизнь", опубликованной в прошлом году, считает, что мотивы Шанель имели "тонкие нюансы".

"Everything she did was a paradox. She was so contradictory. On the one hand, she did make anti-Semitic remarks. But then some of her best clients were Jewish, like the Rothschilds, and indeed her business partner was Jewish, and he continued to be her business partner after the war."

"Всё, что она делала - это парадокс. Она была противоречивой личностью. С одной стороны, она допускала антисемитские замечания. Но с другой, среди её лучших клиентов были евреи, например Ротшильды, и её партнёр по бизнесу был евреем, и остался партнёром после войны".

But what did Chanel really do as an agent? Well, after having been promised that her nephew would be released, it seems that she travelled to Madrid in August 1941 with the special dispensation of the Germans, in order to use her contacts to gain political intelligence.

Что же Шанель на самом деле сделала в качестве агента? Получив обещание, что её племянник будет освобождён, она, по-видимому, уехала в Мадрид в августе 1941 года по указанию немцев, чтобы использовать свои контакты для политической разведки.

According to a document cited by Vaughan, though, this visit only saw her exchanging banalities with a British diplomat who reported that: "the Germans cannot understand the French and this is making them hate them to the point that she, Mlle Chanel, is afraid of what will happen."

Однако Воэн ссылается на документ, из которого видно, что дело не пошло дальше банальных бесед с британским дипломатом, который о них докладывал так: "Немцы совершенно не могут понять французов и начинают их ненавидеть настолько, что мадемуазель Шанель страшится за последствия".

Vaughan readily accepts that Chanel was never a spy. "Espionage - you take photographs, you take documents. Chanel never did that," he says.

Воэн готов согласиться, что Шанель никогда не была шпионкой. "Шпионаж - это фотографии, документы. Шанель этим никогда не занималась", - говорит он.

"She was a facilitator. She knew everybody in Spain, she knew everybody in England, and she helped out the Nazis." At the war"s end Chanel, who fled to Switzerland, was spared from being tried as a collaborator. Vaughan says due to Churchill"s intervention, others say because of the British royal family.

"Она была пособницей. Она всех знала в Испании, в Англии и помогала нацистам". В конце войны Шанель бежала в Швейцарию, избежала суда за сотрудничество с немцами. По словам Воэна, из-за вмешательства Черчилля. Другие считают, что благодаря британской королевской семье.

Returning to Paris in 1954, her re-establishment in the couture business was financed by none other than Pierre Wertheimer, one of the men she had sought to dispossess during the war.

После возвращения в Париж в 1954 году она воссоздала свой бизнес с финансовой помощью не кого иного, как Пьера Вертхаймера, которого она пыталась лишить бизнеса во время войны.

Coco Chanel died, aged 87 in January 1971, appropriately enough in her wartime home, the Hotel Ritz in Paris.

Коко Шанель умерла в январе 1971 года в возрасте 87 лет - где бы вы думали? - всё в том же отеле Ритц, где жила во время войны.

War and conflict always reveals the survival instinct. Coco Chanel, who had risen from a Catholic orphanage to become the mistress of all she surveyed, was a born survivor.

Война и конфликты всегда обостряют инстинкт самосохранения. Коко Шанель, выросшая в католическом сиротском приюте и ставшая хозяйкой всего, на что падал её цепкий взгляд, была рождена, чтобы выжить.

Примечание: интересны цитаты Коко Шанель , которые можно найти среди статей на английском на нашем сайте.

Лучшие - образцы мудрости и остроумия.

Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.
Мода существует не только в платьях. Она существует в небе, на улице. Мода связана с идеями, образом жизни, происходящими событиями.
A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous.
Девушке нужны два качества: она должна быть стильной и потрясающей (фантастической).
I don’t care what you think about me. I don’t think about you at all.
Мне всё равно, что вы думаете обо мне. Я о вас не думаю вообще.
There is no time for cut-and-dried monotony. There is time for work. And time for love. That leaves no other time.
Для сухой монотонности просто нет времени. Есть время для работы - и есть время для любви. Ни на что другое времени нет.
I wanted to give a woman comfortable clothes that would flow with her body. A woman is closest to being naked when she is well-dressed.
Я хотела дать женщине удобную одежду, облегающую её тело. Женщина ближе всего к обнажённости, когда она хорошо одета.
Fashion is architecture: It is a matter of proportions.
Мода - это архитектура: она вся зависит от пропорций.
There are people who have money and people who are rich.
Есть люди, которые имеют деньги, а есть люди, которые богаты.
Luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury.
Роскошь должна быть удобной, иначе это не роскошь.
Fashion has become a joke. The designers have forgotten that there are women inside the dresses. Most women dress for men and want to be admired. But they must also be able to move, to get into a car without bursting their seams! Clothes must have a natural shape.
Мода превратилась в шутку. Модельеры забыли, что внутри платьев находятся женщины. Большинство женщин одеваются для мужчин и хотят их восхищать. Но ведь ещё надо двигаться, надо сесть в машину так, чтобы не лопнули швы! Одежда должна иметь естественные формы.
Fashion is always of the time in which you live. It is not something standing alone. But the grand problem, the most important problem, is to rejuvenate women. To make women look young. Then their outlook changes. They feel more joyous.
Мода всегда соответствует тому времени, в котором вы живете. Она неотделима от него. Но самая большая проблема, самая важная проблема - это омолодить женщин. Сделать так, чтобы женщины выглядели молодо. Тогда их мировоззрение меняется. Они чувствуют себя более счастливыми.
Don"t spend time beating on a wall, hoping to transform it into a door.
Не тратьте время на то, чтобы стучаться об стену, надеясь превратить её в дверь.
Success is often achieved by those who don"t know that failure is inevitable.
Успех часто приходит к тем, кто не знает о том, что неудача неизбежна.
Great loves too must be endured.
Всякую большую любовь тоже надо уметь вынести (пережить).
Since everything is in our heads, we had better not lose them.
Так как всё находится у нас в головах, то нам лучше не терять их.
In order to be irreplaceable one must always be different.
Чтобы быть незаменимой, надо всегда быть разной.
Elegance is not the prerogative of those who have just escaped from adolescence, but of those who have already taken possession of their future.
Элегантность не является прерогативой тех, кто только что выскочил из подросткового возраста, но тех, кто уже завладел своим будущим.
A woman who doesn’t wear perfume has no future.
Женщина, которая не пользуется духами (парфюмом), не имеет будущего.
Fashion fades, only style remains the same.
Мода проходит, стиль остаётся.

Коко Шанель

Примечание: интересные и остроумные высказывания известных (и не только) людей можно найти в материале "

В разделе на вопрос У кого-нибудь есть биография любого очень-очень известного(типа Коко Шанель)дизайнера на английском языке? заданный автором Женя Быченкова лучший ответ это Coco ChanelFashion DesignerName at birth: Gabrielle Bonheur ChanelDesigner Coco Chanel gave the world the little black dress, Chanel No. 5 perfume, and a casually classic notion of style that influenced women"s clothes throughout the 20th century. Coco -- a nickname meaning "little pet" -- was raised in an orphanage, where she learned to sew. In 1910 she began selling hats from her own shop, and by the 1920s her fashion business had expanded to include a couture house, her own textile factory and a line of perfumes that included the famous No. 5. Chanel took women"s fashions away from corseted styles and introduced casual, practical clothing that borrowed fabrics and attitudes from men"s fashion. She was the first to introduce black as a fashion color; her versatile, semi-formal "little black dress" became a Chanel trademark and an enduring fashion standard. During and after World War II Chanel"s popularity waned, and her love affair with a Nazi officer kept her in a form of self-imposed exile in Switzerland for more than a decade. She made a comeback in 1954 and her designs became some of the most popular in the western world, especially in the United States. Since her death the Coco Chanel Company has been under the direction of designer Karl Lagerfeld.или надо еще кого? пиши на почтовый ящик

Today we are going to talk about a world-famous legend, and her name is Coco Chanel .

I think you cannot disagree with me that every sphere of life has its own famous representatives (though many of them achieved their fame without hard work or talent), but there are also idols, whose level of fame and popularity cannot be so easily achieved.

For example, there is a famous singer Iosif Kobzon who is well-known for his wig (which is practically nailed to his head), his face (which is the victim of hundreds of plastic surgeries) and his silly, pointless sayings.

On the contrary, another famous singer Fedor Shaliapin had become a living legend because of his talent.

All football fans know Artem Milevskyi, who seemed to be a very promising footballer when he played for the youth team of Ukraine, but who became famous only for his endless binges and racing on the expensive cars.

On the contrary, there is also Pele whose name is well-known even to people who don’t have a clue how a football looks like.

Fashion industry gave us a famous misogynist Andre Tan, who clothed female members of our national team in shapeless garments, but fortunately, it also gave us Coco Chanel , the legend of fashion industry, whose achievements and popularity in the fashion world had not been surpassed yet.

Thus, let’s talk about this fashion legend.

Coco Chanel: early steps to popularity

The girl, who was born on August 19, 1883 in the French town of Saumur, was given a name Gabriel.

Later, when she changed her name to Coco and became famous, Gabriel would say that she was 10 years younger and was born in 1893.

The childhood of the future celebrity couldn’t be called happy: she lost her mother at twelve, and then her father left their family. Gabriel and her four little siblings were left alone. Gabriel was sent to one orphanage after another, and thus she became mature very soon.

At 18 she got her first position of the shop-assistant at the underwear store. Dreaming about a huge fame, Gabriel started performing at the cabaret.

She has not become successful as a cabaret singer, because she possessed neither singing nor dancing skills.

However, this part of her life gave Gabriel two presents: first of all, she acquired the name Coco (from some of the songs she sang) and the affair with a wealthy officer Étienne Balsan, who helped her to forget about poverty.

Unfortunately, Étienne didn’t support Gabriel’s dreams about fashion. Thus, the young lady found another man who shared her sacred desires, and his name was Arthur Capel. He helped Coco to open her first boutique of hats in 1910.

The talented fashion designer quickly attracted wealthy customers.

Moreover, she entered their circle as their equal. Nobody treated her as a milliner or service staff. She was considered to be a star and everybody wanted to meet her.

During next decades, up till the beginning of World War II, Chanel’s fame and income had been growing up very quickly.

Name of Coco Chanel is synonym to success in fashion industry

Everything had changed when the war began.

Coco had to close down her shop because Paris was occupied by the fascists.

Apart from this, Chanel’s nephew was held captive and she decided to have an affair with a German officer in order to free him.

When the war ended, Chanel was blamed for her connection with occupation regime.

In 1953 Coco Chanel ventured to open a new shop in Paris, but came to grief when she presented her first collection to the public.

Fortunately, Coco didn’t give up and ignored the narrow-minded critics. Instead, she concentrated on her work and managed to climb the fashion Olympus in only three years!

Coco Chanel presented her clients with one masterpiece after another. Fashionable women followed her recommendations thoroughly and copied the style of Mademoiselle Chanel, while her colleagues envied her and lived in the shadow of Coco.

The favorite of muses died in 1971 from heart attack at the age of 87. She was buried at the cemetery of Lausanne in Switzerland.

5 main presents to fashion girls from Coco Chanel

Little black dress.

Coco Chanel proved that you don’t necessarily have to own a huge wardrobe or rush home in order to change your clothes for an evening party.

She created the all-purpose attire – little black dress.

Depending on the accessories it can either be a business suit or an evening dress.

Up till now tweed suits (lace-trimmed suits without a collar and with a tight skirt) remain the trademark of “The House of Chanel”. Every should have them in her wardrobe.

Handbags with chain straps.

Coco used to complain about constantly losing her tiny handbag because it hampered her.

Later she created a small handbag with a chain strap which could be carried on the shoulder.

“Chanel No. 5” perfumes.

It was Coco together with an emigrant from Russia, Ernest Beaux, who presented a complicated synthesized perfume and its fragrance was not like anything known before.

Coco Chanel freed women from the necessity to wear long hair and make complicated hairstyles on their heads.

Witty tips to the future generation from Coco Chanel

As a matter of fact, Coco Chanel created so many aphorisms that they could be published as a separate book of quotes. However, I think that top-10 of them can be listed here, and they are:

“Fashion is always of the time you live. It is not something standing alone. But the grand problem, the most important problem, is to rejuvenate women. To make women look young. Then their outlook changes. Then they feel more joyous”.
“Elegance is not the prerogative of those who have just escaped from adolescence, but of those who have already taken possession of their future.”
“Nature gives you the face you have at twenty. Life shapes the face you have at thirty. But at fifty you get the face you deserve”.
“There is time for work, and time for love. That leaves no other time.”
“A woman can be overdressed but never over elegant”.
“Keep your heels, head and standards high”.
“In order to be irreplaceable one must always be different”.
“Coquetry, it’s a triumph of the spirit over the senses.”
“Women have always been the strong ones of the world. The men are always seeking from women a little pillow to put their heads down on. They are always longing for the mother who held them as infants”.
“Success is most achieved by those who think that failure is inevitable”.

Coco Chanel was not only the legend of the fashion world, who gave women a huge variety of basic pieces of clothes which will never become old-fashioned, she was also a successful business lady and an unbelievably wise woman.

A real legend, you know!

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For almost six decades. Her elegantly casual designs inspired women of fashion to abandon the complicated, uncomfortable clothes-such as and -that were prevalent in 19th-century . Among her now-classic innovations were the Chanel suit, the quilted purse, costume , and the “little black dress.”

When was Coco Chanel born, and when did she die?

Coco Chanel was born on August 19, 1883, in Saumur, France, and she died on January 10, 1971, in Paris, at the age of 87.

What is Coco Chanel known for?

Coco Chanel was a fashion designer known for such now-classic innovations as the woman’s suit, the quilted purse, costume jewelry, and the “little black dress.” She also introduced the phenomenally successful perfume Chanel No. 5.

How did Coco Chanel become famous?

Coco Chanel was a seamstress who became associated with several wealthy men, one of whom, Arthur (“Boy”) Capel, provided her with financial assistance to open a millinery shop in Paris in 1910. Chanel’s minimalist designs were immediately successful, and within 10 years she was the head of a thriving Parisian couturier.

What was Coco Chanel’s family like?

Coco Chanel was born into an impoverished family. Her father abandoned her and her two sisters to an orphanage and her two brothers to a local family after their mother died. Chanel never married and had no known children, but she looked after her elder sister’s son, André Palasse, following her sister’s suicide.

Chanel was born into poverty in the French countryside; her mother died, and her father abandoned her to an orphanage. After a brief stint as a shopgirl, Chanel worked for a few years as a café singer. She later became associated with a series of wealthy men and in 1913, with financial assistance from one of them, Arthur (“Boy”) Capel, opened a tiny millinery shop in , where she also sold simple sportswear, such as jersey sweaters. Within five years her original use of jersey fabric to create a “poor girl” look had attracted the attention of influential wealthy women seeking relief from the prevalent corseted styles. Faithful to her maxim that “luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury,” Chanel’s designs stressed simplicity and comfort and revolutionized the . By the late 1920s the Chanel industries were reportedly worth millions and employed more than 2,000 people, not only in her couture house but also in a laboratory, a textile mill, and a jewelry workshop.

The financial basis of this empire was Chanel No. 5, the phenomenally successful perfume she introduced in 1921 with the help of Ernst Beaux, one of the most-talented perfume creators in France. It has been said that the perfume got its name from the series of scents that Beaux created for Chanel to sample-she chose the fifth, a combination of and several other floral scents that was more complex and mysterious than the single-scented perfumes then on the market. That Chanel was the first major fashion designer to introduce a perfume and that she replaced the typical perfume packaging with a simple and sleek bottle also added to the scent’s success. She partnered with businessmen Théophile Bader of the Galeries Lafayette and Pierre Wertheimer of the Bourjois cosmetics company, who both agreed to help her produce more of her fragrance and to market it in exchange for a share of the profits. After signing a contract wherein she received only 10 percent of the royalties, Chanel enacted a series of lawsuits in the ensuing decades to regain control of her signature fragrance. Although she was never able to renegotiate the terms of her contract to increase her royalties, Chanel nonetheless made a considerable profit from the perfume.

Chanel closed her couture house in 1939 with the outbreak of . Her associations with a German diplomat during the occupation tainted her reputation, and she did not return to fashion until 1954. That year she introduced her highly copied suit design: a collarless, braid-trimmed cardigan jacket with a graceful skirt. She also introduced bell-bottomed pants and other innovations while always retaining a clean classic look.

After her death in 1971, Chanel’s couture house was led by a series of different designers. This situation stabilized in 1983 when became chief designer. Chanel’s shrewd understanding of women’s fashion needs, her enterprising ambition, and the romantic aspects of her life-her rise from rags to riches and her sensational love affairs-continued to inspire numerous biographical books, films, and plays, including the 1970 Broadway musical Coco starring